How to repaint a metal garage door.
Steel and aluminum doors leave the factory with a baked finish that ordinary paint will not stick to. Almost every peeling repaint we get called to fix went wrong in the first hour, not the last.

How do you repaint a metal garage door so it does not peel?
Why metal doors peel here
A factory garage door finish is baked on, hard and slick. It is designed not to hold anything, which is exactly the problem when you want to put a new colour on it. Roll a coat of house paint straight onto that surface and it will look fine for a summer, then sheet off the first spring.
Calgary adds two accelerants. Road salt — magnesium chloride, active down to about -15°C and harder on steel than rock salt — sits on the bottom panel all winter and undercuts any coating from beneath. And a chinook can move the panel through a 30°C swing in a day, flexing the metal repeatedly while the coating either moves with it or lets go.
- Painting over salt or exhaust film — the most common single mistake
- Skipping the sand, so nothing has grip
- A general-purpose primer instead of a direct-to-metal one
- Painting below 5°C, so the coating never forms a proper film
- Spot-priming only the rust and rolling colour over the rest of the factory finish
What you actually need
This is a short list, and the primer is the only item on it worth being fussy about. A rust-inhibiting direct-to-metal primer is a different product from an all-purpose primer, and substituting one for the other is the difference between a seven-year finish and a one-year one.
- Degreaser and a hose or pressure washer
- 180 grit paper or pads, plus something finer for feathering rust repairs
- Rust-inhibiting direct-to-metal bonding primer
- Exterior acrylic enamel in your colour, enough for two coats
- Painter's tape, masking film and drop sheets for the driveway
Rust: when it is prep and when it is a new door
Surface rust on the bottom panel is normal on a Calgary door past ten years, and it is a prep problem: sand it back to bright metal, feather the edges, and let the direct-to-metal primer do its job.
Rust you can push a screwdriver through is a different conversation. Once a panel is perforated, coating it just hides the hole for a couple of years. That is the point where the money belongs in a replacement door rather than in paint.
Timing and temperature
Exterior coatings need roughly 5°C and rising, plus surface temperatures in the same range — a sunny -2°C February afternoon in Calgary does not qualify, no matter how warm the air feels in the chinook. May through September is the honest window.
Watch the sun as much as the thermometer. Spraying or rolling a hot, south-facing steel door in full afternoon sun means the coating starts setting before it levels out, which is how you get lap marks on a surface everyone sees from the street. Work the door in shade, or work it in the morning.
When to do it yourself and when not to
If you have a single door, a Saturday, patience for the sanding, and you are happy with a rolled finish, this is a genuinely doable DIY job. Buy the right primer, do not rush the wash, and it will hold.
The reason people hire it out is the finish, not the difficulty. A garage door is a large flat panel at eye level from the sidewalk, and roller stipple shows on it in a way it never does on a wall. Spraying is what makes a repainted door read as factory rather than refreshed — and spraying well outdoors, with masking that protects the house and the neighbour's car, is where the skill actually sits.
Questions people ask
Can I use regular exterior house paint on a metal garage door?
Only over the right primer. The colour coat can be a quality exterior acrylic enamel, but it has to go over a direct-to-metal bonding primer — house paint applied straight onto a factory garage door finish will not hold.
Do I need to remove the garage door to paint it?
No, and you should not. Paint it in place, closed, with the hardware masked and the weatherstripping pulled back so the panel edges get covered.
Should I sand the whole door or just the rusty parts?
The whole door. Sanding the rust only addresses the rust; scuffing the entire factory finish is what gives the primer grip across the panel. Doors that peel in sheets are almost always spot-sanded doors.
How long before I can open the door again?
Four to six hours after the final coat. Opening it sooner risks the fresh coating bonding to the weatherstripping, which tears the finish along the edge of the panel.
How many coats does a metal garage door need?
Two over primer for a same-tone colour, and often three if you are going from a dark door to a light one. Thin, even coats beat one heavy one every time on a vertical metal panel.
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Keep reading
- ClimateChinooks & paint failureA chinook can move the temperature 20–30°C in a few hours, dozens of times a winter. Each swing works moisture behind the coating and breaks the bond. Prep, not price per litre, is what survives it.
- ClimateHail & repaintingHail pits paint film as well as denting panels. Painting over unrepaired siding buries the problem and can complicate an insurance claim — settle the claim and repair the substrate first, then paint.
- TimingBest time to paintMost exterior coatings need day and overnight temperatures above about 10°C to cure, which makes late May to mid-September the dependable window. Everyone books the same four months, so quote in spring.
- Colour2026 coloursBenjamin Moore named Silhouette AF-655 its 2026 Colour of the Year; Sherwin-Williams chose Universal Khaki SW 6150. Both suit our light better than the cool greys that dominated the last decade.
- SubstrateStucco vs HardieStucco is porous and cracks with wall movement, so it needs breathable coatings and real crack repair. Fibre cement is dimensionally stable and the most paint-friendly cladding in the city.
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